The cuticle often can be in a form of a roll that rises above the surface of the nail plate. In terms of structure, such a cuticle is dry and tough, and can be processed with both cutting tools and special hardware attachments. It is necessary to process the burrs as well, so that no damaged tissue remains on the surface.
The other type of cuticle is tightly attached to the nail plate, almost “crawling” along it. It looks like a thin transparent film, where the "roller” cuticle border is clearly visible. With such a cuticle, the roller is always higher, there are cracks and burrs present. It is better to offer to such customers a classic or combined manicure. It is better to push aside such a cuticle with a spatula after applying a remover or soaking, cut it off with scissors and remove the burrs around the nail. Then it is recommended to treat the skin.
Another type is when the skin smoothly rolls into the cuticle and does not have a sharp contrast (border). At the same time, the cuticle itself is elastic and resilient, very tightly fitted to the plate and transparent. As a rule, it is very difficult to push and lift it with a spatula. Such a cuticle is never dry, but if it is treated not properly, there are many burrs occurs that are not deep, but painful. The pterygium can grow strongly up to 50% to cover the nail plate. Such a manicure is best done with a soaking to better soften the skin and safely remove the pterygium from the plate without damaging it.
The issues of incorrect processing of the cuticula is that the master can damage it. And even if there is no visible damage (cuts), the skin near the nail plate is injured, exfoliates, which as a result leads to the appearance of burrs. How to avoid damage? In the traditional hygienic manicure, it is better to work with cuticles of the shapes described above using scissors. Moreover, you should not cut off the entire cuticle, but leave a thin strip of the cuticle.
In addition to tools, keratolytics are used when processing cuticles. Keratolytics are agents that can remove excess keratinization by loosening and exfoliating and the skin cells. They are of two types - acids and alkaline - and act differently on the treated area. Some dissolve, others exfoliate the keratinized cuticle cells.
Alkaline keratolytics contain a low concentration of alkali. It dissolves keratin, resulting in a softened keratin mass that can be easily removed mechanically. But the frequent use of such method leads to drying out of the cuticle, the appearance of burrs and cracks. Sometimes the use of alkaline keratolytics causes a burning sensation during the procedure, and after that nail plates may look yellow. It may happen since, depending on individual characteristics, not only the cuticle can dissolve, but also the surface layer of the keratin of the nail plate.
The second type of keratolytics is acidic. These include the group of alpha hydroxy acids (ANA): citric, lactic acids. In addition, AHAs are excellent moisturizers.
They benefits are in that the keratinized cuticle is almost not formed. Feel the difference!
Unlike alkaline keratolytics, ANA does not "dissolve" keratin, but breaks down the bonds between skin scales. As a result, the layers of excessive keratinization are gradually peeled off.
The professional masters should be able to master different manicure techniques well, and use them correctly. After all, it is the individual approach to each customer that allows you to process the cuticles thoroughly and to "preserve" the aesthetic appearance of the manicure for a long time.
At the end of any procedure, you must apply a protective oil or cream for nails and skin, which contains moisturizing and protecting nutrients. They not only have a beneficial effect on the skin, but also on the condition of the nails.